An Evening in Karachi

Thinking back on the past few weeks and my time in Pakistan, I hardly know how to relate the mix of emotions that seem to wrestle around in my heart. I can clearly remember the drive to the airport on my last day, squeezed into a small white taxi with my brother, watching the Murree hills fade away from me. Lush trees were soon replaced by sparser shrubs, the cool mountain air grew hot, and my shirt began to stick to back. I watched as I was taken away, feeling like a banished criminal, being led from the place I wanted to stay. I know that it was me who decided when to leave, and when my flight would be, but somehow it felt forced, like a sentence carried out routinely. Like visiting hours were over.

As I sat on the plane, surrounded by Pakistanis, I remembered the joy I felt when I had taken this same flight coming to Pakistan, and the anticipation with which I watched out the windows to see the small houses with flat roofs and little Japanese vehicles that dotted the airport tarmac. Now I thought of the airports in Canada, where clean Fords drove around, pulling the long baggage trains toward the plane, and not a plastic bag was to be found on the grass around the runway. Something about Canada always seems to be a little too clean – antiseptic maybe.

I had a pleasant surprise the evening of my flight as my brother and I landed in Karachi, and rode a shuttle to the nearby airport hotel. Thinking we were heading straight out of the country, I had forgotten that we would be spending the night here, and that my time in Pakistan was not quite over yet. Instead, I gazed out the window at the silhouettes of trees and buildings as the air of a Karachi night blew warm in my face – enjoying Pakistan for a short while longer. I hadn’t even planned to be down in the Sindh, and then, unexpectedly there, I felt I couldn’t have left without being there first. I felt as though, in some ways, I hadn’t truly been to Pakistan without being in Karachi, with its lights, its memories, and bustle of activity.

Our hotel seemed like an oasis. It was surprisingly enjoyable, ignoring the not-so-clean looking sheets, and the cockroaches that skittered across the floor (thankfully they were only small ones – much better than the huge ones we sometimes found in our bathroom in the Sindh. The ones that would take a few good smacks to kill, and that would then wiggle their massive legs feverishly until you had washed them down into the toilet in the ground).

Once at the hotel, my brother and I made our way to the restaurant for a buffet of various Pakistani food. It was evident that I would be given ample opportunities to enjoy the little things of Pakistan for just one more night, and I made the most of it, with rice, vegetables, chicken and roti. After the meal, my brother and I, tired as we were, made our way around the compound, following the signs to tour the games room, the work-out room, and even a swimming pool, which was closed for the night. We managed to pull ourselves up high enough up to wall to peer over at the still water in the pool. I texted my Mum that evening and told her we had decided not to go to Canada quite yet, and that instead we would enjoy the hotel for a few more days, and give ourselves time to enjoy the pool and the other facilities. If only it had been true.

After our explorations of the hotel were complete, my brother and I returned to the room for cool showers. The water was soothing, as I let the cold water rinse off the sweat that stuck to my clothes. I lay damp in my bed, staring up at the roof, listening to the sound of the water as my brother showered. Again, questions and emotions poured into my head. This time I closed my eyes, and prayed aloud instead – going before the one Person that I knew would stay with me, that has a plan for me, and that will give a purpose to each morning and fresh joy to fulfill it as well.

The Worst Airport in the World

I believe I truly have found the worst airport in the world. No, it’s not Karachi, or Islamabad, or even the intense security checks of Kabul International Airport. The worst airport in the world is in Toronto Pearson International Airport.

On the way to Canada from Pakistan, I explained to my brother Stephen how I couldn’t understand the baggage carousels in Canada. In Pakistan the luggage comes in on belted conveyors that loop back and forth throughout the room. These, to me, are obviously much lighter and therefore cheaper to run as well. In Canada however, the luggage drops down onto a small carousel with shifting steel pieces, that must cost a fair bit more to run than the light conveyors in Pakistan. To add to this, baggage comes down slowly from the floor above, where it then slides down onto the carousel, not only slamming into the bags below, but sometimes stacking two, if not three bags on top of each other. This means that if your bag happened to land on top of a couple others, you then have to reach as high as you can to fight your bag off a revolving mountain.

Before seeing the baggage carousels, my brother told me that he liked the way they were built in Canada and that he thought they were “cool.” However, after almost an hour and a half of waiting for bags to slowly drop down before we could wrestle them off off one another as they quickly slipped by, and almost pushed him into a railing as they went by, he had converted to my hatred of Canadian carousels.

To add to this, Toronto Pearson International is the only airport I know of where a person has to pay to use the baggage carts that are normally provided for the public. And after paying a whole two dollars to get one, one finds oneself with a pitiful little cart that cannot go backwards, and that needs to have its handle pressed to move at all. As always, I was not impressed. The only time that I found this cart closely useful was when it didn’t roll away from me as I loaded my bags from it into the car in the parking lot. It seems the only thing it does well is to keep from moving.

After using the cart, the thing should then be returned to it’s cart ‘corral’, where usually a person in dealt out twenty-five cents by the machine attached, to make one feel a little better about their financial loss over this awful contraption. Instead, upon returning the poor cart to the ground floor, my brother and I were left empty handed by the machine, two dollars poorer and feeling very much cheated.

So, Toronto Pearson International Airport, it’s official, you are the worst airport in the world.

Getting Warmer

Sitting on the plane on my way to Islamabad, I am finally beginning to realize that I really am going to be in Pakistan soon. It wasn’t until I reached Toronto that the white faces in waiting lounges began to grow scarcer, and very soon I found myself almost alone amongst Pakistanis traveling back as well. And I, the out of place white face, finally felt oddly at home again. All around me, Urdu has replaced the usual sounds of English, and with the flavourful taste of chicken curry and rice for supper on my flight, I know I’m getting closer. I’m getting warmer.

A flight attendant talks to me, asking where I’m going. Soon I find out he has studied in the same hills as I have, and even visited my school at times for sports matches. Another tells me that her family is originally from the Murree area as well. We talk about the beauty of the hills and the mountains, and how wonderful the weather is there. Definitely getting warmer.

I feel myself aging when I fly. When I was younger, the twenty hours or so of transit were easily filled, movie after movie, as I made my way through the available options. I can even remember watching a single movie two or three times in a row. This time I haven’t even touched my tv. In fact, on my last flight I found myself trying to turn down the lighting on the screen, just so it wouldn’t bother me as I closed my eyes and drifted into intermittent sleep.

Sleep. The one thing I hope to reap out of this trip. I know that the instant I set foot on Pakistani soil, sleep will become precious but fleeting commodity, so I hope to get as much of it as I can beforehand. With so little time and so many people to talk to, I’m not sure that shut-eye will be very high on the priority list. I still remember the days before my own high school graduation, as I talked late into the night with the other guys in my class. It’s not the nights you slept that you’ll remember, I told myself. It’s the ones that you didn’t sleep that make the best memories. And looking back, I think I can agree with that. It’s certainly not a principle I would hold to every day, but at the special times in life, its good to keep in mind what’s really important. I just take comfort in knowing that if all these late nights kill me, at least I’ll die happy.